Skip to main content

How to Keep Your Belayer and Your Belay Safe and Secure in Rock Climbing

When the weather’s good and the rock is calling, it’s easy to tie in and rush into climbing. However, think about the belay first. If you’re belayer’s not safe or stable, neither are you—whether you’re sport, trad, single-, or multi-pitch climbing. No matter who’s holding the rope—total newbie or hardened vet— setting up the belayer to deliver a secure, safe, reliable catch will not only prevent leader and belayer injury, it will also help the leader move faster and more efficiently.

CRAGGING WITH A FLAT BASE

To keep the belayer from slipping and potentially pulling the leader off, examine the route’s base. If it’s fl at, the belayer should stand underneath the first piece, letting the rope run smoothly, without any jerking or short-roping that could pull off the leader. If there is a significant weight difference and the leader could fall, consider anchoring the belayer down.

CRAGGING ON UNEVEN TERRAIN

If the belay is uneven and the leader is solid on the terrain, the belayer could find somewhere comfortable to sit—a stable belayer is less likely to slip and pull the leader off, and less likely to lose control of the rope if a fall pulls him toward the wall. If the leader might fall, then the belayer should be upright and bracing in whatever body position. You can also build a mini-anchor using nuts, cams, or bolts above the belayer to prevent her from slipping and accidentally pulling off the leader; the belayer then ties into the bottom end of the rope and clove-hitches to the anchor.

CLIMBING OFF THE GROUND

When in fourth-class terrain, high off the ground, or on a multipitch route, climbers should always have a solid anchor. Add comfort to the belay by placing the anchor above the belayer— this allows the belayer to weight the anchor and brace for leader falls. To protect the belayer and minimize the chances of a factor 2 fall—a high-force fall directly onto the anchor—the leader should place protection early on the pitch. However, note that any fall with minimal rope in the system will be violent and hard to catch—i.e., try to avoid falling with little rope out, even with gear in. As the leader climbs, she should be placing additional gear to prevent a long, higher-force fall, as well as to protect against landing on the belayer. If there’s a chance the leader could hit the belayer, consider adding a catastrophe knot (see “Backing up the Belayer”) or relocating the belay.

CATCHING THE CLIMBER

Whether at the base or belaying from a stance, think about how the belayer will catch the climber. If there is a substantial weight difference, the belayer will likely be pulled up and into the wall. You can prevent this a few ways: First, have the belayer take a braced stance, such as an outstretched foot on a rock and a closer position to the wall, even leaning against it. For further protection, place a piece below and behind the belayer. Consider the orientation of the placement. If the leader whips, the belayer will be pulled up and the piece will act as a pivot point. You should thus avoid placing a piece in front of the belayer, as it could force him into the rock in a fall. (Note that the photo above shows the piece in front of the belayer solely to illustrate the tethering principle. She has simply stepped back from where she’d usually stand, for the photo.)

Think ABC—Anchor, Belayer, Climber—to keep the anchor, belayer, and climber/leader in as straight a line as possible, with or without a piece anchoring her down. This minimizes the chances of a lead fall pulling the belayer in at an awkward angle. Have no slack in the system, and keep your brake hand on the same side as your anchor attachment if using a piece beside you.

BACKING UP THE BELAYER

One way to add more security to the belay is to use a “catastrophe knot.” First, estimate how much rope the leader will need to get through the hard climbing at hand, and then tie an overhand on a bight that far down the brake strand. This catastrophe knot will jam into the belay device in case of belayer failure. After the leader climbs through the hard section and places gear, the belayer should undo the knot.

We’ve all been strung out on the sharp end for one reason or another. By setting a solid position for our belayer, making sure, she can catch us well, and backing everything up, the leader and the belayer become safer. The sting of the sharp end dulls a little when the leader knows he’ll receive a reliable catch.

Popular posts from this blog

Remington Model 700 CDL SF Review and Test

Like most firearm companies, Remington burns a lot of midnight oil coming up with ways to convince hunters and shooters they need to buy more than just one of a particular model. Among the enticements are styling changes and limited editions produced only during a specified period of time, a year being typical. It has to be that way in order for most firearms to survive. A Model 700 BDL built in 1962, its first year of production, is still one of my favorite rifles, but had the Model 700 stayed exactly the same and had never been offered in other variations, it might not be with us today. Instead, the same basic rife has been available in about three zillion different styles, variants and calibers, and for that reason, along with the fact it was a good design to begin with, it remains the most successful sporting rife of American design. The Model 700 Classic wearing a stock of true American classical styling appeared during the 1970s and is an example of a subtle change in market...

Weihrauch HW 60 J Thumbhole Review and Tests

Specializing in high-quality air rifles, this German maker is less well known for its line of small-game rimfire and centerfire rifles. The latest addition to the range, the HW 60J has a thumbhole stock and is a work of art in walnut and steel.  Weihrauch enjoys a worldwide reputation for accuracy and air rifle quality that’s been carried over to its cartridge rifles. The HW 66 is available in two models, the Production that has an American classic style stock and Jagd-Match with heavy match barrel and especially developed match target stock with high Monte-Carlo buttstock and ventilated fore-end, a model well suited to Olympic Competition. The Jagd Match is available in the same calibers as the HW 66 with the sole exception of the .22 WMR. The HW 60 J is a light, well-designed, nicely balanced small-game rifle featuring a Continental-style walnut stock with hogsback comb, cheekpiece and slender schnabel-tipped fore-end. The barrel is equipped with a folding rear sig...

The 5 AM Club Audiobook Download Free by Robin Sharma

Download The 5 AM Club by Robin Sharma Audiobook free here: https://tinyurl.com/1The5AMClub This is the summary of The 5 AM Club by Robin Sharma.   Introduction   What's the secret to becoming a billionaire? There must be one because if we all knew how to get there surely everybody would have a billion dollars by now. But the truth is that there is no singular secret to success. Everyone employs different methods on the road to achieving their dreams and in the case of one very successful billionaire, that secret was starting his day at 5am. In fact, he was so confident in this method that he attributed all of his success to that one simple practice, instead of his natural business acumen or the hours he'd invested in his company. And fortunately for you, it's not a secret.  Through the course of this summary, we'll learn how to join what he called the 5am club and why it can revolutionize your life. We'll even take a look at some interesting facts like, why slowing...