First, thanks to everyone who wished me well in my efforts to learn as much as I can about the sport of airgun shooting. The editor passed these on to me, along with some good advice about where I’m going with my series, although he told me he’d rather I found out as much as I can, myself, because that’s how the readers of this magazine will do it. My series is about finding the right way to do things, but in the real world that means making the mistakes that everyone makes, and after reading what I wrote last month, I realize I’ve already made a huge one.
SAFETY FIRST
I’ve been thinking so much about learning the dozens, probably hundreds, of skills and techniques, that I’ve taken the most important one of all for granted. Safe, legal shooting has to be the main priority for everyone in our sport, and I’ve been taught to handle guns, knives, axes, power tools, and even vehicles in a safe and responsible way since I was old enough to touch them.
The main piece of advice Terry gave me was that many people don’t come up as I did, also that safe gun handling really is a skill like every other one, and it needs to be learned. Yes, I know some people might think getting a safety lecture from a newbie teenager is a bit rich, but I know it needs to be done, so here it comes. Don’t worry, I’m not going to repeat all of the wisdom of those far better qualified than I am to show how to shoot safely and legally. The safety rule that has always been my biggest influence is also the simplest one; ‘never point a gun at anything that isn’t a legitimate target’. Once that rule has been followed, the rest can back it up and keep everyone very safe.
SCOPE FIXING
Now to sort out my new scope and get it zeroed, and what I need now, is a cornflakes box, some thick string, and enough time to get this vital process right. Here goes.
My first job is to fit the scope to the rifle, and the best way to do this is to fix the mounts to the rifle, and then the scope to the mounts, making sure that everything is positioned perfectly before finally tightening the clamps and fixtures. I found that making the scope fit my best stance was better than adapting my stance, mainly my head position, to fit the scope. I did this by shouldering the, uncocked and unloaded, rifle with my eyes closed and getting comfortable with the stock. Then, when I open my eyes, the scope has to be exactly where I want it, or I’ll shift it and try again.
To get the scope vertical, I set up a plumb line by tying a weight to some string and hanging it from a branch. If it’s windy, peg down the string as soon as it’s hanging vertically. Once the string is fixed, rest the rifle in your usual shooting position – you can use a small spirit-level, or a level that fits on the mounts, to help you – and line up the vertical axis of the scope’s cross-hair with your plumb line. Getting this right is vital, because a scope that isn’t ‘square’ will cause something known as ‘phantom windage’, where the pellets hit to the side of your aimpoint as though blown by the wind, when really it’s because you’re shooting with the rifle canted slightly to one side.
EVERYTHING EVEN
When you’re ready to fix your scope permanently, begin with the mount clamps before moving on to the rings, making absolutely certain you tighten each screw in turn, bit by bit, using the small end of the hex wrench first, before swapping the wrench around and finally ‘nipping up’ the screws.
When you’re tightening down the scope rings, do so by the ‘opposites’ system, as you would with car wheel nuts, making sure that the gaps between the upper and lower sections of the scope rings are even and equal to keep the clamping pressure on the scope body properly spread. Above all, never over-tighten those scope rings, or you really can damage the scope body and possibly wreck the whole scope. Take that from someone who has done it, but will never do it again.
EASY ZEROING
The easiest way to get any rifle and scope zeroed, is to begin with a large target at 10 meters, or yards if you prefer, and to get it roughly sighted-in, before moving the target out to your preferred zero range. All of this, of course, only takes place once you’ve made certain that your shooting range is safe. Here are a few more tips to make zeroing your scope quick and easy:
● Use a large target at 10 meters (or yards) with a single black spot as your aiming mark
● Aim directly at the target spot and take your time to get each shot just right, ignoring any you know are off-line
● Shoot at least three shots to establish what adjustments need to be made
● Adjust your scope gradually, a few ‘clicks’ at a time, always aiming at the target dot, getting the pellets to ‘walk’ toward the dot under your control, rather than cranking the turrets and chasing the pellets all over the place.
● When your pellets are hitting the dot on the close target, move it to your main zero distance and complete your zeroing process.
● Replace your turret caps and check that your mount fixtures are secure, especially if you’re using a spring gun.